Diary of an Armchair Backpacker

Happy New Year

2012-01-03T16:26:00.002Z

Hello dear backpacking friends. Its that time again, this little blogs birthday and time for the ol' New Years Resolutions.

Are you sitting tight?

Then I shall begin....

1. Work Smarter Not Harder.
This one was my horoscope a few months ago and what good advice it is. And only this morning I heard someone on the radio say "volume isnt the key, we say people work hard if they stay late at the office but in truth they might be sitting there doing nothing". How right that man was. I often work late, and I really am working, but in truth its so counter productive. I end up poorly and run down, I neglect myself and my hobbies. And then I have to spend weeks getting better, barely achieving any work at all. So this year no late nights, no writing reports nobody asked for. Just doing a good job 9-5 and getting some proper teas and early nights.
This also applies to how I do my housework, how I train for triathlons, even the items I purchase, right down to the food I put in my mouth. Smarter choices all round please. If its not getting me to a better place Im not doing it.

2. Scale Paper Mountain
I am always drowning in paper. But now I have two shiny filing cabinets so Im spending this week sorting, organising and shredding it all down to just what needs to be kept. Then Im going to go paperless wherever I can (banks, energy companies, email me please) and keep my papers organised from now on.

3. Spending Log
In an effort to shock myself I am this year writing a list of every penny I spend. Just to track exactly what money I waste. Looking forward to seeing if all my spending is justified and where I can make small changes that will add up to big bucks.

Thats it, just a whole load of organisation to satisfy my OCD's. Cant wait to start seeing some results.

Love A x

I'll mostly be spending Chrimbo Limbo...

2011-12-30T13:44:00.001Z

...eating this cheesecake.

The Cake is from Oak Tree Farm in Sunderland and I first heard the term Chrimbo Limbo when Craig Charles said it on Radio 2 this week.

Hi Craig, we met when I was decommissioning your studio at BBC Oxford Road!

Merry Christmas

2011-12-25T23:50:00.001Z

Hope you're all having a wonderful Christmas. Just thought I'd share a little pic of the charms that went in my Christmas cards. Next year is snowflakes.

Lots of Christmas love
The Armchair Backpacker.

Dad and Daughter Night Out

2011-10-01T10:09:00.000+01:00

Last night my Dad visited Manchester to stay at Angelas B&B as we had tickets to see Crosby & Nash at the spectacular Bridgewater Hall.

We began our evening with dinner at the highly recommended Don Giovannis on Oxford Street. A very cool and contemporary restaurant with delicious pasta and yummy deserts.

Then we took our seats among the most passionate yet extremely polite audience for the show. Simply brilliant.

Crosby & Nash mixed their unique talent with brilliant wit and were accompanied by a wonderful band, including James Raymond, Crosbys son and one of their composers.

And Daddy Stevenson enjoyed his first trip on the tram!!

A fabulous evening was had by all.

Big Thank Yous

2011-09-28T22:25:00.003+01:00

So here it is, the must-have 'end of ride' photo. Im always the one who insists we have one. I liked the all on the tandem idea but we dont look as comfortable as I thought we were at the time. Nonetheless, the tandem is a legend and I think this is still a fitting photo to mark its first turn on one of our rides.

So all that remains, is for me to say a big THANK YOU to my wonderful cycling friends for a brilliant weekend away. As soon as I get the cast off Ill be in touch to pester you all for future plans.

Already cant wait!

Ang x

The highlight of the weekend

2011-09-27T14:56:00.001+01:00

Kristina and her car sponge. Absolutely the highlight of the weekend. Definitely brightened my day on many occasions.

To anyone who's ever had a delicate tush after a bike ride, Kristina is definitely getting the last laugh.

Love it

Day 3 - Transporter Bridge & Tumbles

2011-09-27T11:05:00.000+01:00

Day 3 began with a fried breakfast and some welcome sunshine as we pedalled out of Middlesbrough. We saw a house covered in beer cans that I'm now sad I didn't stop to photograph.

I had been looking forward to the Transporter Bridge since it had been suggested and in the sunshine it totally lived up to expectations. It was on telly last night and I was chuffed to be able to say 'I've been on that!'

We pedalled onto Hartlepool with a quick stop to photograph Seal Sands which truly lived up to their name. Our plan had been to lunch in the Marina but we were too early so pushed on along the disused railway route to Castle Eden.

When I was a kid the Castle Eden Inn was a family favourite as it did a roast dinner on a platter. Perfect for families as it's kind of a personal carvery and you just help yourself. They even did a platter of banana split! I've never seen them anywhere else but I wouldn't want too now as in my child size memory they were massive, don't think they would live up the expectations now!

Anyway, back to the story, we arrived at the Castle Eden Inn and I was amazed by how much it has changed. We settled on comfy sofas next to the piano and enjoyed a lunch that everyone agreed was fantastic.

After lunch we headed out for the final leg. Joining route 1 toward Sunderland. It's probably weird that I have a favourite bit of route but I always enjoy going over the water on the slats.

Slowly everyone peeled off to head home and we said our goodbyes. Making promises to head out again early next year.

The final joy of Sunderlands city centre cycle routes was one for me to enjoy alone. And it was while I was pelting along these, weaving between the chavs and broken glass, that I performed the best 'off' I've ever managed.

One second I'm riding, the next I'm on the floor nursing a broken hand while some kids offer a round of applause.

Not realising how badly injured I was, I picked myself up and pedalled home. Happy it hadn't happened earlier, especially not in Scotland!

Another brilliant day of riding and only one tiny blip that is all part of the calculated risk.

56km in total finished the weekend off nicely

Only in Sunderland

2011-09-26T17:15:00.004+01:00

I know everyone is harsh on their own hometown but in all my miles I've never seen a cycle track like this before.

I went through the gate just because I can't imagine anyone else has.

Angela Eggs

2011-09-26T17:15:00.003+01:00

At lunch we noticed Angela eggs on the menu. Turns out Angela owns the hens.

HMS Trincomalee

2011-09-26T17:15:00.001+01:00

The home of many a school trip of my youth.

Seal Sands

2011-09-26T17:14:00.003+01:00

Living up to the name. Loving the seals.

Interesting sculpture

2011-09-26T17:14:00.001+01:00

This sculpture reminds me of the hoop they toss a Christmas Tree through to wrap it in net.

I'd love to see a Christmas Tree that big.

I heart the Transporter Bridge

2011-09-26T17:13:00.000+01:00

Many people scoff at the Middlesbrough Transporter Bridge but how many have actually been on it?

Phil suggested we went on and as I never had before I jumped at the chance. And it was fab. I know I am a glass half fun person but it was genuinely a lot of fun.

I have never been happier...

2011-09-26T17:10:00.004+01:00

...to see the smog of Middlesbrough on the horizon.

Our Day 2 destination.

Day 2 - hills and happy hours

2011-09-26T17:10:00.003+01:00

I have long marvelled at the ability of the human brain to forget pain and day 2 proved I could do this as well as any cyclist can claim to. Either that or my memory is shot!

I was the only one of the party to have cycled the route before and one "feature" on day 2 meant I wasn't in any hurry to remind the others I had supported it as a good route choice many moons previously.

That feature was of course Sutton Bank. Famous to anyone who's been to Scarborough before and feared by caravan clubs the world over.

I remembered it as being a bit tough and I had eaten a whole box of Roses last time I cycled up. What I had forgotten was the shear corners and the inability to keep the front wheel on the ground, making the risk of a backwards fall very real. Our attempt wasn't helped by two transits making a run up it and an Audi whos sat-nav had a very dry sense of humour. All of which forced us off the path, costing valuable momentum.

Alan did a sterling job of cycling the tandem up and the three bikes behind employed various mixtures of walking and granny gears to slowly conquer the feared hill.

At the top the view of gliders landing made it nearly all worth it but time had gotten away from us so tea and cake was forfeited to make sure we stopped for lunch before the lunch service stopped (see, we did learn something yesterday!)

A few more hills improved our average speed and we enjoyed a delicious Sunday roast at the Hawnby Inn (holder of 4 AA stars).

After lunch we had pedalled a few yards when the heavens opened for precisely as long as it takes me to put on my waterproofs. We sheltered under a tree to debate another pint but the blue sky didnt take long to return and a pub crawl plan was formed.

We cycled over the tops of the moors and dropped down a fantastic hill to picturesque Swainby, complete with ducks and a cute bridge over the river. We hadn't been in the pub more than a few minutes when there was a power cut so we drank by candlelight before heading on our way.

The next stop was Hutton Rudby, known well to anyone who's done a Cleveland Tri Club race as it's on the bike route. Here was polished off more beef crisps (a bit of a theme of the weekend) and partook in a health debate about the hill arrows on the map.

Is partook a real word?

The hills did exist but they weren't too bad and we were soon in Maltby where a very classy pub clouded our judgement. We certainly enjoyed the break from the bikes but ignored the fall of darkness at our peril.

Back on the bikes for the last couple of miles we found of all the lights only 1 front and 3 back lights worked so we carefully cycled in convoy, illuminated by the Middlesbrough street lights, to the Blue Bell.

Having totally missed dinner service we settled down to a long awaited pizza takeaway (but no chinese!) and a few drinks before turning in.

69 hilly kilometres.

Read while you Tinkle

2011-09-26T17:10:00.002+01:00

I love to read on the loo. It's one of my quirks. And the ladies in the Hawnby Inn was happy to oblige

P.S. I don't often take photos on the loo I hasten to add.

Twin Peaks (I think that was a tv show, I hope so anyway, might be something rude, I hope not!)

2011-09-26T17:10:00.001+01:00

Just another beautiful view I had to stop and look for a minute.

Take Off

2011-09-26T17:09:00.002+01:00

To make Sutton Bank totally worth it we were treated to a view of the glider club at the top.

Now thats how to travel on a hill

I cycled up what!?!

2011-09-26T17:09:00.001+01:00

Sutton Bank. My biggest understatement of the day. After that baby we merely scoffed at the 13% hills

First Glimpse

2011-09-26T17:08:00.001+01:00

Had to stop for a quick pic when the famous White Horse first came into view

Day 1 - Vikings & Villages

2011-09-26T17:06:00.002+01:00

We ate breakfast in the Old Grey Mare and headed out early onto the roads of Hull. A short detour towards the Humber Bridge was quickly rectified and was found the route and picked up the pace.

The weather was best described as blustery but after the rain of the previous evening cycling in sunshine was a shock to the system.

Along Route 66 there was again loads of rainbows and the pancake flat route saw us spinning through the beautiful villages and countryside of the Yorkshire Wolds.

For the whole morning Alan had been cycling the tandem alone as Suzanne wasn't able to join us until the afternoon so at Stamford Bridge he headed on alone to meet her at York Station while the rest of us scoped out an intended lunch.

Unfortunately we were too late for lunch at both the village pubs but we still stopped for Phil to toast the Vikings (a week before the anniversary of the 1066 battle) and we had crisps before heading off again.

The afternoon was a much more leisurely pace as we made up our own route. Hopping from village to village until we reached Easingwold and our accommodation.

We checked into lovely little cottage style rooms at the back of The George and settled down for a drink in the late and slightly chilly summer sun. The Cider was very traditional. It tasted of apples but smelt like a farmyard. The real deal!

After not getting lunch, arriving to the smell of curry was more than we could resist so we quickly searched out The Indian Garden restaurant and devoured a delicious meal before we all fell asleep.

The blog is going all European for this trip, a fantastic day and 92km covered.

We also had a calorie counter that reported a rather alarming 3300. Keep the beer and curry coming!

Any idea what this is?

2011-09-25T21:07:00.003+01:00

This spiky plant thing was found hitching a lift on my glove.

Looks like a dead flower head.

Answers on a postcard.

And a Ducket!!!

2011-09-25T21:07:00.001+01:00

Are you sure I'm not on the Coast & Castles?

This Ducket looks beautifully restored. Think it probably houses humans now, certainly looks too posh to house meat and manure anymore.

Is that a Castle?!

2011-09-25T21:04:00.000+01:00

No wait, wrong route.

Beautiful Beverley

2011-09-25T20:33:00.000+01:00

I'd often heard of Beverley in Yorkshire but had never visited until we cycled through. It was so picturesque that I had to take a few snaps when we stopped for supplies.

Day T-1 - Home to Hull

2011-09-25T20:25:00.001+01:00

Long time readers of the blog will know that I'm quite partial to a cycling weekend and sometimes go away with Nissan friends old and new. So just 4 days after I returned from Scotland I was off again. Brynna bike shed 10kg for this shorter trip and there was a bike bus involved.

Last time I wrote about a bike bus I was in shock. Now they, like cyclists on the routes, are rapidly increasing in numbers and that can only be a good thing.

I was a little apprehensive about being back in the saddle so soon but my post Scotland blues mixed with a rather dramatic week meant I was raring to go by the Friday afternoon when we met in our old haunt, the Three Horse Shoes.

I had silently resolved not to drink so soon into the journey (i.e. before it even began) but my resolve quickly weakened while the driver secured the bikes to the trailer with a MILLION cable-ties and I gave in to a sneaky half.

My reason for not drinking was nerves over loo breaks on the long journey to Hull, but I needn't have worried, there was loads!

We set off at tea time for a bus ride none of use had bargained for. "B-B-C Rad-i-o Twooo" quickly reported that there had been an accident and the traffic was backing up on both the A19 and A1. They weren't half wrong and the bus crawled along for what felt like an eternity.

Fortunately Mother Nature decided to put on a show of lashing rain, claps of thunder and spikes of fork lightening for our entertainment (I do love thunder storms).

For the less geeky among our group Kristina brought crosswords which filled the time until we eventually arrived into a pitch black Hull.

We were staying at the Old Grey Mare and learnt while checking in that we'd arrived 10 minutes before the end of food service. Some quick juggling saw for successful ordering of cyclist staples (curry, pie and beer) and a night of recalling previous trip events began. I used to be a terrible cyclist and there's plenty milage left in those stories yet.

Just shy of midnight I was fighting sleep so said my goodnights and climbed the half-mile of rolling staircases to our room. A challenging workout all by itself!

Too good to eat

2011-09-25T19:56:00.000+01:00

In a break from normal programming I thought it was worth reporting that today, the 25th September, I am eating my Easter Eggs.

This is a photo of one on my knee.

You see there was a family of them and they were just too cute to eat but now they are a month past their sell-by date I've decided to bring on the inevitable fate.

And after much deliberation I've decided the most humane way is in reverse size order. Just the daddy to go. I feel queasy!

Day 18 - heavy hearts and happy heads

2011-09-23T16:45:00.001+01:00

Day 18 was the last if our holiday and with much sadness we made our way to Oban station for the journey home that would include 3 trains and 7 hours.

We had the most fantastic time, didn't want it to end but were so pleased it had gone so well.

Hello and thank you to everyone we met, you really did make it.

We can't wait to start planning the next one.

P.S. This is a photo of us on the beautiful beach.

Robert Wright (the triathlete) meets Robert Wright (the rugby player)

2011-09-23T16:38:00.001+01:00

The story of the final night of our holiday began months earlier when I was booking all 12 hotels we would stay in over 18 nights.

For most places Google Maps was the best tool as we were limited by milage in such rural places. But in Oban we were spoilt for choice and less limited by the bikes so it was over to TripAdvisor to see what others have to say.

After much use of TripAdvisor I've found the key is to bear in mind price. Some people want the moon on a stick for a tenner and will leave terrible reviews if they don't get it. So instead of looking at the average scores look for similar travellers on a similar budget staying in the type of accommodation you prefer. You may find your ideal right down the list.

I've digressed too far with that as its totally redundant advice in this post. It didn't take much digging at all before Hawthornbank House caught my eye. A beautiful guest house on the hill overlooking Oban and the harbour. When I phoned up to book I learnt that it was owned by Morven and Robert Wright. As Rob is also Robert Wright I decided it was fate and booked up straight away. Morven offered us the four-poster room with sea views and being the last night of the holiday I decided it would be the perfect last treat.

We arrived late in the evening, pleased to be off the islands before the hurricane hit and a little shocked to be back among lots of people. We were greeted by Morven, stashed the bikes in the rather grand hallway and headed out with lots of recommendations of restaurants and pubs.

We chose the Olive Garden and had a lovely meal and spot of people watching (still in shock not to be the only ones in a restaurant) before retiring to the four-poster and falling asleep before my head hit the pillow.

The next morning we arose to a beautiful breakfast and our last excuse for a fry up. Robert and Robert finally met and after being unfazed all holiday by the imminent meeting was actually canny pleased. And even learnt that that a third Robert Wright had been discovered too.

We popped to the shop for final supplies before heading on our way.

Another wonderful stay that we just wished could have been longer.

Day 17 - bikes, boats and trains

2011-09-21T22:06:00.000+01:00

We left Daliburgh a little star struck as Sandy from Island Parish had queued behind me in the Co-op (have I mentioned I love it!) and pedalled down to Loch Boisdale to catch our ferry back to the mainland.

For our last night on the islands we stayed at South Uist Bunkhouse. A former old peoples home that has been converted. Firstly, brilliant use of the building, lovely cheap rooms and lots of plans to continue developing it. Secondly, how did an island with such a small population ever need such a massive old folks home.

We pedalled a whole 3 miles in terrible wind to the ferry port and visited a fantastic post office, i know, never thought I'd say that.

The post office has been given a new lease of life through a diversification scheme and is now doing roaring trade as a Internet cafe and local shop frequented by locals and ferry passengers alike.

We sheltered there for a couple of hours before boarding the ferry and heading over to Oban for one last lovely night on our Hollibobs, including a delicious meal in The Olive Garden Italian restaurant down at the harbour.

We saw this beauty in Oban station and wondered why there wasn't any steam powered trips on our holiday.

Day 16 - Due South

2011-09-17T07:10:00.001+01:00

We left Jacs with an optimistic weather forecast and a recommendation of where to stop for lunch.

A few miles back to the main road we'd arrived on the previous day, turn right, head south for 33 miles.

It was the first time I'd ridden a single road with a conscious feeling I was headed in a particular direction, as if working my way down the globe.

It was also the first time I had ridden a single track 'A' road!

The weather, true to form, didn't last long. The rain came back and we realised it was cold for the first time the whole holiday. Making my fingers tingle and the left side of our faces numb.

We stopped for lunch and supplies. Dried out, as did the weather and headed on for our last 10 miles.

When suddenly Brynna bike decided to protest. Ironically as we passed the only cycle repair shop we had seen the whole holiday, my terrible habit for pushing my top gears decided to bite and my chain snapped. On the terrible photo you can just about see the broken and bent link where the yellow is.

Fortunately Rob had a good chain tool and I had been carrying chain links for 10 years for such an occasion so sheltered by the hill we were climbing, rob came to my rescue and I took photos!

With my bike back in action we pedalled on to Daliburgh (famous for Island Parish) and found our bunkhouse for the evening. A little sad that our last day that can pass for cycling was over.

Bagh Alluin - unique accommodation

2011-09-12T08:50:00.001+01:00

At the end of our hectic half day cycling! We were over the moon to arrive at Bagh Alluin and be greeted by Jac.

The whole way there we were praying that arriving early wouldn't be a problem and we were very fortunate to be greeted by a warm welcome and the possibility to go straight to sleep.

Even out on the islands where most places are peaceful, Balashare is the most tranquil place we had ever been and the accommodation complemented this perfectly.

Jac is an artist who's home and studio is totally unique, we were blown away when we arrived by the design and the windows and the views. Rob has decided that this is the place of the whole holiday that appealed to him the most.

Jac and the whole family were fabulous hosts who really did make us feel like house guests, not customers, and we had the most fantastic stay. perfectly rounded off by a delicious continental breakfast.

I was very pleased to have a chance to meet Senna, Jacs daughter who makes the most beautiful jewellery. I bought a few pieces as presents and in exchange offered some bike charms for future creations.

I cannot recommend staying here enough, it has certainly left one of the biggest impressions from the whole holiday.

The photo is of the house from a long way away, to show how beautiful and spacious this little part of Scotland is.

Day 15 - boats, bikes & empty legs

2011-09-11T17:22:00.000+01:00

Day 15 started earlier than we would have liked, as we needed to get the ferry over the Sound of Harris to North Uist and the only option that would work was 8:25.

After an hour long crossing we headed straight into the wind and realised the toll yesterday had taken on our energy levels.

We had two choices of route for today but cowardly took the shortest which on the map looked like it came closest to a village where we might get a cup of tea and a packed lunch for later.

We arrived through wind and rain in Lochmaddy in just an hour and found a gallery with a cafe where I had a scone and rob had soup, at 10:30 in the morning. But when cycling on holiday normal rules don't apply.

We found a shop and bought cheese and crackers but only another 15 miles up the road was our accommodation and we didn't see another place to stop so we arrived very early in the afternoon which was very peculiar to our riding weary minds.

Fortunately we were greater with a warm welcome and our room was ready so we are slightly ashamed to say these two mad keen cyclists spent the whole afternoon asleep.

Jac, who we were staying with answered the question of where to eat on Balashare which had puzzled us the whole way there but upon seeing our expressions at the suggestion we would need to get back on the bikes kindly offered to rustle up a pizza (and I was cheeky enough to ask for chips when he said he was off out to pick up the family fish supper).

Delicious pizza, chips and salad devoured we felt half human again and headed out for some bracing sea air to stave off sleeping all evening too.

And that's when we discovered the most beautiful beach ever, in the part of the UK famed for it's amazing beaches this was the most special we had seen.

After a long walk and lots of sunset photos we headed indoors for a long sleep.

Sunset on North Uist

2011-09-11T07:54:00.000+01:00

We were the only people on the most stunning beach we had ever seen. Here's a little snap.

Power never in short supply

2011-09-10T19:05:00.000+01:00

We saw a few windmills on the Islands but given the ever gusting winds I really expected to see a few more.

Carminish House - now you're spoiling us!

2011-09-10T19:00:00.000+01:00

The brilliant b&b recommendations just keep coming and this one is dedicated to Howard & Sallie who run Carminish House on South Harris.

For this story you have to cast your minds back to the pain of Day 14, the mountains, the wind. So you'll understand when we made a bee line for the nearest restaurant and stayed for many drinks and three courses.

I knew we were expected at our booked accommodation, which I thought was still a few miles down the road. We had been on the bikes for 9 hours so it wasn't at all early and I decided to phone, just to say we were close.

What I hadn't realised until Howard answered was that we were just 2 minutes away on the bikes and an easy 10 minute stroll from the house to the restaurant and ferry port making the accommodation yet another perfect location. Howard & Sallie were on route for a pre dinner drink and popped into the restaurant to see us. A very happy introduction as we'd been 'slogging our guts out' (to quote Rob) to reach them for hours.

After our meal we free-wheeled down the hill to their house and found our lovely room, complete with Harris Tweed. There was a big shed for the bikes to kip in and we were reassured that the area is very safe (we've worked out island cycling is very safe but it would take us months to give up our bike locks totally).

We had to go straight to sleep but woke beautifully rested and to a delicious home cooked breakfast and a very detailed weather forecast on the table. A fabulous idea we loved and created easy conversation with the other guests.

After breakfast we found our bikes dutifully waiting against the wall (thank you for getting them ready) and we pedalled back to the ferry port.

Another wonderful stay during which our only sadness was that we spent most of it asleep! Wish we could have stayed longer.

P.S. This photo is sunrise over Leverburgh and Carminish House, it's there I promise!

I owe an explanation to lots of wonderful people

2011-09-09T07:27:00.000+01:00

It only just dawned on me yesterday that the people we stay with really are reading the blog. And the businesses I am writing about are their homes so they will of course have feelings, good or otherwise, about what I write. So before I start again I thought I should explain myself.

I started writing about the accommodation we stayed in simply because we were bowled over by how fantastic so many of the places were and we hope by adding some little mentions to the blog other cyclists might find them useful.
When I was planning the trip I scoured the Internet for other cyclists experiences and the reason for blogging the trip is I hope to add a useful and detailed resource to the pool for future travellers to find (I will be updating my google search data with every keyword I can think of when I get home!)

I hope it is evident in the blog that the Armchair Backpacker loves all the pretty and wonderful things about the world. She is trying to create a blog that spots the beauty and positivity at times when the news is full of all the sad things and many people only bother to write if they have a complaint.

So I hope all the B&B and Hostel owners we have met are happy with my reason, it would seem wrong not to say something as by the end of the trip we will have stayed in 13 different places and you're amazing hospitality has been a huge part of making our trip so enjoyable and such a success.

And I will of course add comments to TripAdvisor for those who are members and any other official review sites I find listings on. I am not suggesting all tourists will flock to my blog and I know how important the big review sites are becoming and the effect they can have on business.

Thank you all again, it has been wonderful to meet you all and I hope through this site we can keep in touch. I'd love to hear about all your future plans.

Day 14 - squalls and more squalls

2011-09-08T09:06:00.000+01:00

Today I learnt a new word, Squall. It is when the wind comes over in flurries and brings with it sudden downpours and rainbows. It couldn't describe today more fittingly.

We set off early from Stornoway as we were worried about the hills and weather as always. Quickly we climbed to the moors and the hard work really started. Gusting headwinds and steep climbs which did shield us from the wind momentarily meant it was a constant battle against the weather or gravity!

Rob didn't enjoy today, making me realise that being on the front is not just physically tougher but mentally more difficult as well. He only has the miles stretching ahead while from behind he is my Eldorado (constantly moving horizon). And stretch ahead the miles certainly did, 58 in total making it our longest day on the bikes by far.

But when we did look up the views were spectacular and we couldn't fail to see why tourists flock here from all over the world. The two pictures above are just a little sample. Loch Seaforth as we crossed from Lewis to North Harris and a beach on South Harris. It's very true when they say that the west coast has fantastic white beaches and miles of blue Atlantic ocean.

Finally after many hours of being beaten on the hills we headed into Tarbert and stopped at the Harris Hotel for tea and warm scones.

Leaving for the final leg was a little flatter and we saw the famous Taransey Island (from Castaway 2000 and maker of Ben Fogles career). Finally we pulled into Leverburgh ad made a bee line for the first restaurant we saw, The Anchorage. Our intention had been just to look at the menu and return later but we were very hungry and they agreed to have us as we were, full waterproofs and all, so we dashed straight in and enjoyed a lovely 3 course meal and a few drinks. If you're ever in the area, and why wouldn't you as it's stunning, make sure you pop in here for dinner or drinks.

A challenging day but very enjoyable, for me at least!

Hip Heb Horray! Another wonderful hostel.

2011-09-08T08:48:00.001+01:00

Just wanted to give a quick mention to Christine and her Stornaway Hostel.

Heb Hostel is located perfectly in Kenneth Street, just a minute or two from the ferry port. Which was brilliant luck after we had arrived so late and in the dark. But finding it was easy and we were greeted by a warm welcome.

With the bikes tucked up in the ample shed we turned in for Robs first stay in a shared dorm. He was apprehensive. I was reliving my days as a Brownie, and strange adult love of bunkbeds (I'm convinced were leaving all the fun to the kids with this one!).

Luckily for rob we had the whole dorm to ourselves for 2 of the 3 nights and on the third we were too tired and tipsy to wake up when people went to bed so it all went swimmingly.

Heb hostel is a beautiful building with many of it's original features and a little cottage at the back for Christine and plenty of garden space for the chickens.

We were made to feel very welcome by the whole family, even though our days off the bikes meant we were a bit more under their feet than we would have liked to be.

Another true treat we cannot recommend enough.

Rainbows!

2011-09-08T08:32:00.000+01:00

Saw so many rainbows as we cycled through Lewis and Harris that I eventually lost count. Beautiful.

Day 13 - unlucky for us

2011-09-06T15:34:00.000+01:00

Well today can only be described as a 'damp squid'.

After two days off the bikes I was coming to the conclusion that the cycling days were the most fun. So we planned a route to explore the Isle of Lewis. Then two things happened...

1. I moved suddenly and aggravated my shoulder, which causes me trouble from time to time. So i couldn't totally move my head

2. It began raining proper winter sideways rain, that comes over in waves and is accompanied by a howling wind noise.

Still we don't tend to think twice about these things and we wrapped up in waterproofs and made a packed lunch.

It wasn't until we got in the yard to get the bikes that we realised even if the ride out didn't bother us. The beach and stone circles we'd planned to visit would be pretty bleak in the low grey light, squinting through the rain in our eyes.

So feeling pretty defeated we went back in doors for tea and biscuits.

A couple of hours later the weather improved but with a compulsory 50 mile ride tomorrow we decided me shoulder needed heat packs not optional mileage and we abandoned the plan altogether.

Then I realised im no good at giving up on stuff so with heat pack in place we slopped off to find cake to lift my spirits.

Unfortunately the cake shop was full but a bar with wine and ice cream was open so we settled down to a boozy afternoon.

Going for a Chinese tonight, think today might be the closest I'll ever manage to being a 'Brit abroad'.

Normal service will resume tomorrow.

Day 12 - knights, chessmen & castles

2011-09-06T15:22:00.000+01:00

Day 12 was another without bikes, as they were having a snooze in the shed so we explored Stornaway.

The town is quieter than I expected but with plenty of tourists and boutique shops to entertain us.

After a look in the tourist information and a few shops we headed for the museum as there was a rare treat in store.

Ages and ages ago a set of Scandinavian chessmen were found on Lewis. Carved from walrus tusk and whale teeth they are now of significant historical importance and are part of this British Museum collection.

But for a short time they are on loan back to the island and on display in their small gallery.

It was fantastic to see them up close and in their historical home.

As part of the exhibition there was a selection of old board games. We played Hnefatafl, a Viking boardgame shown above for ages and loved it so much we downloaded the app to play later in the pub. The aim of the game is to protect or capture the king depending on which set of pieces your playing. The centre is the king and his knights, the outside pieces are the vikings.

After the museum we continued our cultural streak with a walk to Lews Castle, which impressively stands guard over the town. When we arrived we were sad to learn it was closed as it's now been deemed unsafe to inhabit. But the building and gardens remain with mapped woodland walks and flowerbeds so we pottered around in the rain for a bit.

On the evening we went in search of real ale and tried two pubs recommended to us, MacNeils and The Calton Lounge. Both very traditional pubs for a quiet Monday drink.

Introducing Limpet

2011-09-06T08:19:00.001+01:00

It is high time Limpet got a mention on the blog. He is Robs backpack, personified.

Rob didn't make up his name, it's written on the side. To give him his full title, Berghaus Limpet III.

Rob has now carried Limpet for 12 days straight and shows no sign of slowing. He is actually worried about how he'll feel once we get home and they have to spend a day apart. I've suggested just filling him with tools and taking him to fix some trains.

But then I've also suggested buying a croft out here and commuting to Newcastle every day. See, makes the Limpet life plan seem half sensible.

Yes, this is the longest we've ever spent together, yes we are a but perplexed by the slow pace of life, yes we may be a little worried about how were amusing ourselves now.

Perculiar Statue

2011-09-06T08:08:00.001+01:00

We came across this statue in Lews Castle gardens and pondered it's meaning until the rain made our toes cold.

Still none the wiser but very interesting.

A photo for my Mam

2011-09-06T08:05:00.001+01:00

Not because she's a big chips eater, but I think she'd make an exception if item 4 was on the menu.

Getting in the spirit

2011-09-06T08:01:00.000+01:00

Just a cheeky little photo of Rob enjoying a Hebridean beer on the ferry.

A taste of the days to come, literally.

Day 11 - I'm loosing count

2011-09-06T07:57:00.001+01:00

Well day 11 was a proper sleepy Sunday in Ullapool.

It was a very welcome day off the bikes and after a walk around the pretty harbour we bought the papers and sat down to enjoy the view.

In the afternoon we had a treat of a full blown Italian meal, which seemed strange at 2pm on a sunday but very delicious, and browsed the nautical trinkets in Tea by the Sea. A fabulous gift and coffee shop.

At 4:30 it was time to make our way to the ferry port for our crossing to Stornoway. Suddenly the port came to life and the ferry could carry way more cars and lorries than I expected. We had a very flat crossing, lucky for robs tummy ad chatted to some other cyclists who I must admit have a way better sense of adventure than me, my obsessive planning at times isn't such a great thing. I gave them charms as we pulled into the port and we all headed out into the Hebridian night.

A very relaxing day, with one exception, I finished my One Day audiobook so I was a little sad.

Beautiful Boats

2011-09-05T13:54:00.000+01:00

While walking in Ullapool we saw these lovely little boats, all lined up and reflecting on the still water.

I felt compelled to take a photo or two

Day 10 - The long and winding road...

2011-09-04T22:30:00.001+01:00

...that leads to Ullapool!

So after the previously mentioned beautiful breakfast we departed to the garden gate, turned right, and cycled 48 miles along the same road to our next accommodation.

It tickled me all the way that we were staying in two places on the same road but in different towns (no, just me then!)

At first we were apprehensive for four reasons:

1. Was part of the fun not the map reading? Without it would it be a whole day of mental torture?

2. It was an A road. How busy would it be. Would Rob have to cycle behind to keep me safe all the way? If he did would my stamina and knee be up to the challenge of pulling us?

3. Would it really be as hilly as the man with the Dalmatian in Fort William had suggested. Ouch!

4. Would we have to battle the big log lorries my mam had warned us about. If youve seen Ice Truckers you'll understand the mental image I got from her description.

So now ive set it up as the most deadliest bike ride known to man, I am happy to report it was absolutely none of these things.

We started out on the bike route, aware it would turn north after just a few miles and the traffic was heavy during this time so we feared the worst. But mysteriously after the last big roundabout it quickly dispersed. Where all the cars vanished to I have no idea.

The day began with gentle climbs and long flats but doing our best 'twos up' impression we moved along rapidly and settled into our proven 'mountain tires on a road speed' aka 10mph average.

Soon we had relaxed enough for rob to take the lead and after 15 miles we pulled into a hotel in Garve for the first cup of tea in the rain of the day.

Our other concern of the day was finding somewhere to eat so after just 22 miles it was lunchtime enough to stop at a cafe we saw for toasties.

While in the cafe the heavens opened so on with the wet weather gear and back in the saddle for some splashy miles.

We climbed to the moors and it was all looking a bit bleak but with no wind we were having a brilliant day and we even bothered to stop to photograph this impressive dam and the very very quiet road.

Around 6 miles from Ullapool there was an amazing 2 mile downhill and then a few quick climbs before we finally flew into town.

Obviously not the most thrilling day but by no means the worst. It served it purpose of joining the great glen way to the ferry port and it all went swimmingly.

I do however have a plan. There is much talk on the cycle forums about riding the A835 and I trawled all of it in preparation for this trip, but none of it set out really what I needed to know. So dear readers, when I get home I shall be offering a proper article on the very subject for your reading delight.

We rode it on a wet September Saturday and my experience wont be the same as anyone else's. But the forums mostly offer opinion and personal experience, as I have here, so when I return we can share the gps data about the ride to offer the important facts other cyclists need before deciding to ride or not.

That shall be my good deed for the British cycling community this year. I bet you can't wait!

P.S. The charms on tags are not fairing well. The ink has smudged and gone a bit grubby on the ones I have left. I am of course still handing them out as the charm is the real present but with a somewhat apologetic look on my face. It never crossed my mind that ink would run, outdoors, in Scotland, in September. Oops!

Beautiful, Beautiful Guest House

2011-09-03T21:45:00.000+01:00

Ok, so I know it seems that were going from one amazing accommodation to the next. Believe me, were not. Were just not writing about the ones we don't want to recommend.

But we really really REALLY want to recommend where we stayed last night.

Kilcoy House Bed & Breakfast.

Our only plan when looking for somewhere to stay was that we should make the last day of the Great Glen way 10 miles longer so we could get through Inverness at tea time instead of the following morning.

After much Internet searching we came to the conclusion that the only way to Ullapool was straight along the A835 so I headed onto google maps and looked for accommodation in the area.

Kilcoy House was on the A835 about 6 miles from Inverness so it made perfect sense. I called and booked with Catherine. She offered us an evening meal which seemed perfect as we were worried about how late we would arrive and where we could walk to for food.

The night before we were due to arrive Catherine phoned to offer options for the evening meal. It wasn't a menu but a list of suitable foods shed though of to suggest and explained most would be made from home grown produce. We chose the lasagne as rob loves lasagne and is always keen to try a new recipe.

Our first surprise was how easy it was to cycle to the house. It isn't shown on the maps but the cycle route 1 (the double part of the route, heading straight to Dingwall) passes straight past the garden gate. We kept expecting to join the road but we stayed on the same route all the way to the house so it was very easy to find and perfect for cyclists in the area.

Our next pleasant surprise was meeting Catherine who is the ultimate host and seeing her beautiful home and the amazing bedroom we were to sleep in. It was floral like Cath Kidston or Laura Ashley but way more authentic (rob has recently learnt what Cath Kidston is so he knew immediately I would fall in love with it)

First we had cups of tea and strawberry biscuits while rob made friends with their little dog rolly (named because he is a rolly-polly dog and it's true, he liked to roll under the furniture). Then we cleaned up from the very muddy day and sat down to a delicious home cooked meal before retiring to the beautiful bedroom. The perfect end to a long cycling day.

This morning we awoke to a fabulous breakfast of home grown fruit, yoghurt and fruit purée, poached eggs and bacon for me and scrambled eggs, bacon and cheese for rob and gallons of tea.

We were very sad to leave and cycled on our way knowing it had been the best night of the holiday.

Now, I should probably add our stay at Kilcoy was a treat night as we've been hostelling it between slightly more expensive treat nights each week. We were talking to Catherine last night about hotel reviews and I feel very strongly that they should keep in mind the cost and many I've read expect the earth for hostel prices. But I can report that Kilcoy was very reasonable compared to the other treat nights on our trip and worth every penny so I do think my recommendation is well founded.

The business is new and Catherine was keen to quiz us about the needs of touring cyclists. We felt all our needs were more than catered for but we did discuss the drying rooms we've used before as this is something Kilcoy is keen to add.

All in all a fabulous nights stay. We cannot rave about it enough and we look forward to hearing about the progress of the business and returning again in future.

I'm very sorry I don't have a photo, I only realised this afternoon that I'd forgotten to take one but I will add the website when I get home.

Day 9 - push!

2011-09-02T21:59:00.000+01:00

Well today was a toughie and a half alright.

It began with an early start in the rain at Fort Augustus. Immediately we were on a soft peat track that rose so quickly I had to stop and push (in fact I just stopped, rob came back and pushed my bike)

The next 20 miles were the most tricky ive ever ridden. High up in the hillside we battled on for 4 hours to cover only 20 miles. I counted 4 times I got off to push because the track was so loose and steep. When I was riding I was gripping my handlebars so tightly tonight I have 'puffy paws'.

But it was beautiful, with occasional glimpses of Loch Ness that you just had to stop and see.

I was really pleased with how well I did on the mornings off road sections and the 2 and a half mile downhill to town at lunchtime was a brilliant reward for all the hard work.

After lunch and the 3rd cup of tea of the day we set off along the road. It was ok to ride and we covered another 10 miles along the Loch side in only 40 minutes so we quickly made up the time we lost.

Once we got to the top end of the loch the Caledonian Canal begins again and we found a very makeshift canal path that took us wobbling all the way to Inverness and the official end of the Great Glen Way at Inverness Castle.

Our plan after finishing was to push on through Inverness so we didnt hit it at rush hour in the morning. So we joined cycle route 1 again for 6 miles, over the kessock bridge and up to Tore where we turned towards Ullapool and found our guest house for the night. A wonderful place called Kilcoy House.

I'll have to tell you all about the guest house tomorrow as it truly is fabulous.

But for now just todays milage, 48 in total

Night Night

Castle in the Park

2011-09-02T21:42:00.000+01:00

Inverness has a wonderful park built on islands in the River Ness (I think ;) and joined on both sides by a series of bridges.

It has fairy lights!

While cycling over the bridges I saw this castle hidden behind the trees. Beautiful.

Loch Ness - behind and in front

2011-09-02T21:36:00.000+01:00

Today we cycled the whole length of Loch Ness and we did a lot of uphills to see the wonderful views.

Just to give an idea here's a photo of the distance we still had to cycle and one of how far we had come since breakfast

Didn't see the monster once though, sorry.

Day 8 - stuck!

2011-09-01T21:05:00.000+01:00

Well todays riding can be summed up with one phrase "help, im stuck".

That's me by the way. While rob powers ahead or laughs or looks bit perplexed.

My first getting stuck episode was on a submerged bridge. I know a contradiction in terms. But there were two bridges under water as we left Fort William. We cycled through a ford a few days ago and this was just as deep. On the second one I didn't have the speed to bump the bike weight over a plank so I came to a halt. Luckily for me as the bike tipped I saw a dry bit of wood to rest my foot on and I got out with just wet toes.

The route continued off road and we came to two conclusions, it was a blue route and the tires had been a good choice after all.

The blue route quickly turned to black (in robs opinion, I've never ridden a black route) with the introduction of very bumpy tree roots over the whole path. The whole while I was thinking it reminded me of Hex, the Alton Towers ride. I got stuck on the roots plenty and one took quite a bit of getting out of.

The route continued and changed from trees to loose rocks. Again not my strongest bike skill and I managed to get stuck on a downhill. Only I could do that!

A very tricky and technical day but very enjoyable and very very Lord of the Rings-esk!

34 miles in brilliant sunshine ain't bad.

This is a photo of a random tower in the river at Fort Augustus. Mysterious!

Lochs going down

2011-09-01T20:52:00.000+01:00

Beginning to wonder if I'm confusing my spelling of lochs, but anyway...

34 miles after Neptunes Staircase we arrived in Fort Augustus to a surprisingly similar view.

This time accompanied by a row of pubs and a chip shop, all of which we would return for later.

This is just a little photo of the bikes enjoying another canal side rest. Looks like they've fallen out compared to their cost cuddling earlier.

Yes ive taken my bike personification too far, lost the plot!

Tea on the Water

2011-09-01T20:47:00.001+01:00

At one of the Lochs today we stopped for a cup of tea. It wasn't that impromptu, I saw a tea cup on the map 8 miles previous as decided that would be the next stop.

What I didn't expect was The Eagle, a real treat and £1 for tea and a biscuit. Bargain!

Rob and his stump

2011-09-01T20:45:00.001+01:00

Rob has given permission for me to share this photo of him and his, erm, stump.

The clearing in the forest and the way the light fell on the stump really appealed to Rob so we stopped to take a photo.

Lochs going up

2011-09-01T20:44:00.001+01:00

As soon as we joined the canal we were met by Neptunes Staircase. A set of Lochs to lift the boats up to the canal.

We stopped to watch for a while and the bikes took a little rest together.

Steam Again

2011-09-01T20:17:00.000+01:00

Sorry more steam trains.

Yesterday we learnt that there is a daily steam train trip from Fort William, taking in over 80 miles of highland scenery.

Unfortunately we were too late to join it's daily outing but we did cross paths with it today.

Wonderful. Another reason to return. As if I needed one!

Beautiful Views

2011-09-01T20:04:00.000+01:00

Today has been full to the brim with beautiful views, here are just two for your viewing pleasure.

Fort William as we cycled away this morning.

And Loch Lochey from a tiny beach where we were stopped in our tracks by the stunning view (and the promise of an apple pie!).

Starting Stone

2011-09-01T20:03:00.001+01:00

Today is the beginning of us cycling the Great Glen Way which takes us along the Caledonian Canal, linking Loch Lochey, Loch Oich and Loch Ness (I think I've remembered them all, will check the map).

Next stop Fort Augustus on the south bank of Loch Ness

Heavy hearts and happy hostel

2011-09-01T19:48:00.000+01:00

So this morning it was with heavy hearts that we said goodbye to Achintee Farm, Scot & Heather and their hostel.

Their hostel only makes up part of the accommodation on offer here, they also have b&b in the main house and a self catering let in the Shepherds Cottage up the drive.

And to call it a hostel, again like Berwick, doesn't set the scene quite right. It was more like a self catering flat with 2 twin bedrooms in the unit we were in, a beautiful bathroom and kitchen/diner/lounge. Perfect for our fry up breakfasts and packed lunch making.

We stayed here 4 nights and would have loved to stay longer. We met 3 other couples who had the other room for a night each and they were all lovely to share with.

Achintee is a perfect location from which to explore Ben Nevis and Fort William. It is right at the start of the path from the Glen Nevis visitor centre and at the top of the drive is the wonderful Ben Nevis Inn so you'll never be stuck for a cosy dinner and a few drinks.

All the visitors are made to feel so welcome, they even did our laundry and stored our bikes in the drying room. We really couldn't have wished for more.

Rob put it so well with this quote for the day "can't say enough good things".

We look forward to returning in the future with our polished bike skills for a longer stay in Fort William.

Day 7 - steep hills & sore knees

2011-08-31T20:39:00.001+01:00

Today started a little sad. We had loads of plans, maybe another cheeky red run, maybe a picnic on Ben Nevis, but as I was making the bacon sandwiches it became clear that all of this wasn't going to happen.

I twisted me knee a little bit on Sunday getting off the train and it has been a bit sore since then. I've largely ignored it, refusing to let it get in the way of our plans. But today I had to admit that resting it before getting back on the bikes tomorrow would be the wisest plan.

So we decided a little walk into town would be a good idea. Nothing too strenuous.

A couple of days ago I saw a forest path to town, what I didn't know when we set out was that it was a short 5k walk, over cow hill!

So I'm not sure if it did the knee any good but it was a beautiful walk that I can highly recommend. Fantastic views in both directions along the valley and fab views of Fort William and the Loch on the decent into town.

It begins in the Braveheart car park (built for the film crew, just throwing in a little bit of trivia there!).

As for the knee, it's strapped up and ive deep heat and painkillers for it. Got to keep it elevated tonight and tomorrow is a flat canal path so keep everything crossed please!

Treasure Hunt

2011-08-31T20:17:00.001+01:00

When I ordered the bike charms I offered some to my friend Karen although I had no idea what use she would have for tiny miniature bicycles.

But I was very wrong, she had the perfect use. She and the family were just about to head off camping and her husbands kids would be bringing their bikes to go Geocaching.

It's been in the news a lot recently but for those who haven't heard about it Geocaching is an international treasure hunt which uses GPS to find the treasure. There are online communities and everything but it's easy for anyone to play, especially if you have a phone that can do an app for it.

So Karens perfect plan was to use the bike charms as treasure the kids could leave. Brilliant.

I was so intrigued by the whole thing that i downloaded a free app and this morning rob and I did our first Geocache.

I loved it and was really pleased to leave a charm for the next person. rob "couldn't see the point" even though he found it.

So I think in future I shall have to try to win him over. If all else fails I'll ask Karens step-kids to take me with them. Or maybe my enthusiasm will cramp their style!

Storytelling

2011-08-31T19:48:00.001+01:00

Today we went for a little walk in the Glen Nevis visitor centre. It has a little exhibition about the rock formations, famous explorers and life in the area (it has a shop which has the same sq footage as the exhibition!)

On the wall they were asking everyone to add their Glen Nevis stories so always being one to self promote I added ours.

Future Ambitions

2011-08-31T19:44:00.001+01:00

Yesterday at Nevis Range I was a beginner by everyone's standards. Even though I'll happily take on a red route at Hamsterley and I make up routes of my own that are much much harder, Fort William is in a whole different league.

As well as the very skilful skills area, there are also two amazing runs that we can't pretend to have tackled before. In winter the cable car is like any ski resort, taking skiers up to the perfect snowy runs.

But when there is no snow... they take mountain bikers up for a mountain top red run and an extreme downhill decent.

Unfortunately it was quiet yesterday so I didn't get a photo of a cable car with a bike on but on the photo it fits to the silver clips hanging down over the window. You'll have to just imagine it, sorry.

As previously mentioned we were being extra careful yesterday but have vowed to get our skills up to scratch so we can return for a turn on these another time.

Can't wait!

Wish you were here.

2011-08-31T19:33:00.001+01:00

For all I love blogging and being all modern with my communications, I do still love to send postcards.

In May we were in Lanzarote for Ironman UK and I bought special Ironman cards, carefully addressed them and everything. But to this very day our families are patiently waiting for their cards. Please bring them soon Mr Postman.

Im hoping the journey from the highlands to the north east will be less hazardous for these little cards. So here is the evidence that I did buy them and write them in a pub this very afternoon!

Day 6 - lighter bikes

2011-08-31T09:07:00.000+01:00

I'm not sure if I've mentioned before how the route for this trip came together. Lots of people presumed we were going round the coast, or up to John O'Groats as these are the classic routes and both ones I'd like to do one day.

But in truth our route is totally made up and like many things in life, limited by available time.

How we came to decide our route was to list the things we wanted to do in Scotland and then string them together. We started with the Fort William trails, added the Coast and Castles route, suggested the Outer Hebrides, found the Great Glen Way that would get us there a 'hey presto' a zig zag route was born.

Once we had a route the next deliberation took much, much longer. Which bikes and tires would be suitable for it all. The trails were an important part of the fun but they called for tires that would make the rest of the route a tiny bit tougher. We could carry spares but would the extra weight cancel out the benefits. And the Great Glen Way, is it as 'off road' as reports suggest.

In the end we played it safe and tough and chose the knobbliest tires we had for the whole journey, at times I can feel them gluing to the road but yesterday we finally hit the trails and it became all worth it.

One thing we hadn't considered until we got all the way up there was that we would want to be extra extra cautious as one slip could end the whole trip so after peddling all the way on our tires we probably won't get the most use out of them.

Still Nevis range trails are fantastic, I did the blue yesterday which has wonderful sweeping downhills and part of the champs route which was fun and a bit technical.

The pic above is my bike enjoying a rest while we examined the skills area behind. Definitely beyond my capability at the minute, full body armour required for that but a good one to watch.

Also yesterday we ate at the Ben Nevis Inn next door to our hostel. It is a wonderful old barn, full of stunning photos of the mountain and delicious food and real ales. Another enjoyable night. I imagine it would be a perfect cosy night after a proper wintery day.

What is in a name

2011-08-30T18:34:00.000+01:00

As you'll no doubt have guessed, the Stevenson family of bikes that live with me all have names. Betsie the Mountain bike, Bob the green suspension bike and Bernie the Road bike were all named early in our lives together.

But the newest member arrived in the deep snow of last winter and has been without a name all year. I decided a few months ago she would be named on this trip as it would be the trip to cement our friendship and so far its going very well indeed.

So today is an important day as I've finally worked out what her name is....

Please welcome, Brynna Bike.

I learnt today that there is a female version of the welsh name Bryn, which every Gavin & Stacey fan will know means hill. So this is a perfect name for the new little steed as she's doing very well on the hills so far.

Day 5 - Beautifully Rested

2011-08-30T07:11:00.001+01:00

Yesterday the Guardian reported (I know, i read an article, on holiday, just the one mind and I haven't seen the news for 5 days now. It really is a proper holiday from my usual life of an hour of 5live and 3 laps of BBC breakfast before even getting out of bed!)

Anyway, back to the Guardian, it reported that Real Ale is having a Renaissance and I am absolutely sure this is helped 100% by Robs life long mission to seek out local ales wherever he is.

Yesterday began slowly as there was no race to get on the bikes before it rained/snowed/got even more windy. Instead we had a walk into Fort William for a yummy breakfast at Cafe 511 and a bit of shopping.

We got food for packed lunches, maps to plan our stay and some cards each to keep as a way to remember the trip but they are easy to carry in the panniers (always the first consideration).

A simple day you may think, until , Rob spotted the Grog & Gruel. A pub so perfect we wondered why it hadn't been done anywhere else.

The pub serves all the local ales Rob could have wished for alongside what can only be described as 'man food' (Im sorry). Spicy chillis, steaks, burgers as big as a house, the perfect compliments to a night on the ale.

So with a plan hatched we walked back to the farm for an afternoon kip (the kind you have as a kid before a night out past bedtime) and scones and tea (my treat).

When I finally got up we walked again into town, it's miles, and arrived just in time to get the last table in the upstairs restaurant. Our food was delicious and rob sampled the drinks menu at his reliable drinking speed (2 pints an hour!). Skyelight was his favourite.

After a very enjoyable evening we put on our head torches and made a promise to return during our stay before walling the miles to the farmhouse for the 4th trip that day.

Must See Cycle Art

2011-08-29T23:05:00.004+01:00

Today we had a rare day off the bikes (I know, it was confusing!) so to avoid it being too much of a shock to the system we went to scope out the Fort William bike shop, Alpine Bikes.

We were just about to leave with our usual purchase in such situations of energy bars and maps when something caught my eye. A stand of cycle related greetings cards, and beautiful ones at that (not the comedy ones you get fellow cyclists for birthdays).

These were original and unique photography showing the components of our sport and the routes we ride in a new light. These pictures totally appealed as rob often mentions that I 'ooh and aah' at things we see out on the bikes that other cyclists take to be our ordinary environment.

Upon closer inspection I discovered there were cards and prints and I wanted to buy them all. After much deliberation I settled on this image (coming soon!) as weve just finished route 76 so it was the perfect reminder of the trip.

While purchasing the card Toby, who had now sold us lots of stuff, mentioned that the artwork was so original it was only available in that one shop. I was gobsmacked, it is wonderful and I know lots of cyclists are reading at the minute so I just had to tell you this story.

I learnt that the photographer is Fiona who trades under the name Koterana Images. Her website is wonderful and has nature images as well as cycling.

If you are a cyclist (or looking for cycling related cards and presents) I would urge you to take a look and if you can't make it to Fort William, why not contact Fiona through her site.

I'm sure you'll be just as impressed as me.

http://www.koteranaimages.com/

Day 4 Round Up

2011-08-29T18:57:00.001+01:00

Day 4 was a long and busy day.

First off we left the Bothy and cycled 24 miles into a head wind all the way to Edinburgh. This took an hour longer than planned and I was perplexed all the way as last time I did this route the opposite way and that was head windy too. Confusing!

We arrived in Edinburgh just in time for my Mam and Dad arriving on the train. My sister, Faye and her boyfriend Stu were up for a weekend at the fringe and our parents were having a day trip to meet us all for lunch and sample their first fringe shows.

We all had lunch in a lovely pub just off Princes Street where the manager allowed us to chain the bikes in the yard (fringe crowds and bikes dont mix) then we visited a couple of shops and hot chocolates in the rain while Team Stevenson enjoyed a show.

Between their shows we said goodbye and headed for the train to Fort William. It is a journey with the most fantastic scenery, very like Norway but its a long journey.

At 10pm we arrived in a very dark Fort William and armed with head touches we cycles to Achintee Farm. We couldn't see a thing and lovely Scot who owns the farm had to direct us over a footbridge on the phone as we couldn't see it.

Scot met us at the garden gate and helped tuck the bikes in the drying room and showed us to our accommodation. Another hostel that is so much more but I'll tell you about that another day.

A very long but exciting day. Great to see the family (thank you all and see you in a few weeks).

Day 3 Round Up

2011-08-29T18:29:00.001+01:00

Well day 3 was peculiar to say the least. We left Berwick and hit the hits straight away. I was pleased with my ability to get up them (an how brave I was going down) but it didn't half make for a slow day.

We met Bob and Pat on one such hill. Hello to you. They are 'the Sweets upon the seats of a bicycle made for two' and are cycling their tandem all the way round the coast, covering over 1000 miles so far from Liverpool to Edinburgh.

After the hills there was a stretch up the A1 and Totness Power Station and some cement works.

We didn't find anywhere brilliant for lunch so were sick as chips by the time we turned off the route at Haddington to find our accommodation, Bells Bothy Bunkhouse.

I found the Bothy online and we decided to give it a go but we weren't sure what to expect. From the outside it really is just a hut in a field but inside it is wonderfully cosy.

There is a wood stove, a kitchen area, Seating and six bunks. We both chose the middle one and I loved being tucked up in mine. Like brownie camp all over again.

Next time we will be taking 4 friends as there was plenty of space inside and it was even a bit too big just for the two of us.

41 miles and we beat the rain again so not bad all told.

P.S. Better photos to follow I promise.

Hello to all our friends old and new

2011-08-29T18:15:00.001+01:00

Before I write up day 3 I just wanted to pause for a minute to say hello to all of our friends and thank you for your wonderful comments.

For those we haven't met yet a quick update, we've got many friends and family following our progress from home. They put up with our cycling craziness all year round (big thank you to you all) and they are probably enjoying the peace and quite now weve pedalled off for a few weeks.

And for our new friends we've met on route we brought little presents. We wanted to bring something that everyone we met could keep but we couldnt carry much weight so after a big hunt around I found charms (like you get on jewellery) on eBay and they were little bikes. Perfect!

Last weekend my friend Ruth (she's had 22 years of the craziness) visited and she helped me make the charms into little cards and tags people could tie to their bikes.

We have been dishing them out and everyone has loved them (or humoured me convincingly) and I've really enjoyed giving fellow cyclists the little bikes as I know they will love them as much as me.

So hello to you all and big thanks again for the comments. We look forward to more in future and best of luck for your own journeys.

When do I inherit the country pile?

2011-08-29T17:55:00.001+01:00

Was so pleased to finally reach Stevenson House at the end of day 3. I'd seen it on the map at the beginning of the day and it didn't disappoint.

Crossing the Border

2011-08-29T17:53:00.001+01:00

After 3 days on the 'Scotland Adventure' we finally arrived in Scotland!

Terrible photo sorry.

Day 2 Round Up

2011-08-29T17:50:00.001+01:00

Day 2 brought us very good weather. Dry and still but not too hot. All day we expected the rain to catch us but it didn't quite.

After many many level crossings and some castles we joined an off road track that took us through beautiful and eerily quiet countryside. We pedalled carefully in silence, absorbing the atmosphere provided by the rolling countryside to the left and grassy dunes to the right.

It was all very Wuthering Heights....

....except lots of cow pats got stuck in the tire treads!

We ended day 2 with a curry and a trip to the ale house in Berwick and then a beautifully peaceful sleep in a wonderful place called The Hideaway Hostel.

Now, i have to make something very clear. Some people 'don't hostel' and others love it, and that's fair enough. But I think everyone would love the Hideaway. I cannot compliment it enough.

When we arrived, through the gate into the courtyard we were greeted by John and shown through to a purpose built cycle store, the best at a hostel I've ever seen. We were then shown upstairs to a wonderful lounge, kitchen and our own double room.

The next morning John made us breakfast, all with locally sourced and organic ingredients. Very tasty indeed.

And the building itself is such a treat, with many courtyards and plants, a water feature and I counted 4 spiral staircases and that was just outside!

All of this for hostel prices. I urge everyone to stay here soon.

Dreaming...

2011-08-29T17:31:00.000+01:00

I took this photo just after Rob had enjoyed both Beal level crossing and a caramel ice cream!

Looking very content.

P.S. Check out the steam train over the garden wall. Maybe he's day dreaming of a similar feature in the Wright back yard!

Biggest castle of them all

2011-08-29T17:22:00.001+01:00

Lunch on day 2 brought us to Bamburgh. I've long named this as my favourite castle (even writing a short recommendation for Guardian Travel) and it never fails to disappoint. Rising out of the beach it stands guard over a quaint little town.

Rob has offered a quote for this post, "very impressive, now that is a castle!"

I'm sure you will share his sentiments.

After rob posed for pics with said castle we lunched in the garden of the Castle Inn and headed on our way with a promise of ice cream in the afternoon.

Trains for the first time this holibobs.

2011-08-29T10:59:00.000+01:00

Not only does the Coast & Castles route include the obvious. It also has plenty of railway and level crossings. Much to Robs train loving delight he could name most of them!

Chathill has this perfect little station and the old post office next door is up for sale. If Rob ever cycles into the sunset this is where well find him.

A faster way to travel

2011-08-29T09:29:00.001+01:00

A lovely surprise at the side of the road as we pedalled away from Alnmouth.

Day 1 Round Up

2011-08-28T17:13:00.000+01:00

So day 1 is over and it's been 57 miles in the saddle from home to Alnmouth.
After a morning of terrible rain this afternoon has been beautifully sunny. We took off the wet weather gear at Newbiggin and enjoyed a glorious afternoon, completed by this view as we reached Alnmouth. Picture postcard perfect whether you approach by rail or road.

This evening we are staying at the saddle, a very bike friendly b&b and we had dinner at the Red Lion. Always good for posh pub grub and real ales.

Very good start to a promising trip.

Castle in the Sky

2011-08-27T07:28:00.000+01:00

The coast and castles route certainly includes many fabulous views but this one of Warkworth Castle is so much my favourite this is it's second appearance on the blog. Beautiful.

Lunch on the beach

2011-08-27T07:19:00.000+01:00

By lunchtime on day one the torrential rain had stopped and the glorious sun was out. Beautiful. So we took a 2 mile detour into newbiggin to see the couple on the beach.

They weren't standing where I expected but they are an impressive sight worth a visit any day.

The cafe at the end of the beach served us soup and sandwiches while we sat on the prom feeling like our holiday had properly begun!

Friends along the route

2011-08-27T07:11:00.000+01:00

What a lovely surprise to see this fabulous sculpture as we peddled between Whitley Bay and Blyth.

AB Hearts Tynemouth

2011-08-27T07:04:00.000+01:00

Even though the cats and dogs were still falling north of the Tyne the bunting across Tynemouth main street made it seem happy and sunny anyway (even if it was just my imagination).

If you ever get a chance to visit Tynemouth arrive by metro on Market day as the station Market is a fantastic treat.

In the spirit of Armchair Backpacking

2011-08-26T13:54:00.000+01:00

It's very easy to forget to properly see the sights close to home. Even though that's exactly the spirit of armchair backpacking, day 1 it was difficult not to keep pressing on, thinking only of the destination.

Luckily for me (not lucky for coach rob) the longest wooden escalators in the world were off and so were the lifts so we were stopped in our tracks to appreciate the wonder of the pedestrian tunnel while rob carried the bikes down.

What would I do without him? Get the ferry!

All packed up and raring to go.

2011-08-25T08:40:00.001+01:00

Well here we go. 50 miles to alnmouth today and right now it's raining cats and dogs. I like rain cycling though and my stylish new panniers are not only colour coordinated but also totally waterproof so fingers crossed the Scotland weather won't defeat me too quickly.

Stopping for lunch in newbiggin so if you are around and see us give us a wave. Well be the people sitting outside to eat whatever the weather to avoid leaving puddles in restaurants!

Poorly Betsie

2011-08-18T07:56:00.000+01:00

I'm so sorry blog friends, this is a sad story.

I returned home last night to a terrible racket. I found 4 boys trying to steal Betsie Bike. Their tactic was to jump on the frame until it forced the lock open. Just as they realised I was approaching the lock smashed open but when i got to them they scarpered quick and decided they didn't want to lift Betsie over the fence so she was discarded. I gathered her up and brought her indoors.

This is a terrible photo but it shows the bent frame injury she is now nursing.

Betsie I am so sorry. We have had many happy miles together. Get well soon (though that bit depends on me sorting her out!)

Beautiful Park Life

2011-08-14T10:51:00.000+01:00

This weekend I'm in London visiting friends with Coach Rob.

Yesterday I went for a walk with Ania to West Ham park. It was full of beautiful flowerbeds and a fabulous rose garden.

Well worth a walk if you have a minute in London.

Sneaky Peek at Big Blog Plans

2011-08-10T21:44:00.001+01:00

Hello All

Well it's been ages since there was any proper real time travel blogging. Mostly because I've been knee deep in work.

But today I can announce that I, and Coach Rob, are going on a massive cycling adventure in 2 weeks time. It's been months in the planning and there's lots of surprises to come.

But to give you a hint at what's in store, these are some cards I've been making to take with us.

They arent finished yet as I've got charms and ribbons to add but as soon as they are done I'll get a photo up on here for you to see the finished article.

World Records and Old Favourites

2011-08-09T20:41:00.002+01:00

This is an old post from June, sorry it didnt work first time

Today, I, The Armchair Backpacker, hula hooped for Blue Peter.

Being a massive childhood fan of the show, I was over the moon to be part of the final episode from London. It was loads of fun learning to hula hoop properly and I got a Blue Peter badge (a White one, v. important!) and I even got to keep the hoop.

We got the record too so I can now say I am part of the Worlds largest group of people hula hooping at the same time.

The next time I see Blue Peter will be when they begin broadcasting from Salford where I'm now based. Let's hope there is much more Blue Peter fun to come.

Five Time Ironman

2011-08-09T20:40:00.002+01:00

Last weekend Coach Rob became a 5 time ironman triathlete after completing Ironman UK.

And...his identical twin Chris joined the esteemed Ironman club after completing his first race of this distance.

This is a photo of their family and friends wearing Tshirts I designed. They are good for humouring me.

Congratulations to Rob and Chris

More trains, sorry!

2011-05-07T13:41:00.000+01:00

What a treat. This baby just pulled into York station. I'm getting very steam-sentimental!

On the move again...

2011-05-02T08:50:00.001+01:00

Why hello on this beautiful Bank Holiday Monday.

Bank holidays are the best time to travel in the UK without question. This morning I have a train all to myself. I wonder if this is what the queen feels like on her royal train. It's a good job Bertie Bike is here to keep me company.

Notes on an Island

2011-01-23T19:26:00.002Z

For a long time I have been absolutely obsessed with the Scilly Isles and used to adore watching An Island Parish, the BBC 2 series on the Island way of life and the role the church played in it.

Soooo.... I was amazed this week when the programme returned but with a new location, The Outer Hebrides. Absolutely Gobsmacked!

Coach Rob and myself have a trip planned for that very location later this year and I cannot wait. Its going to be a long fortnight (thats 2 and a half weeks to everyone else) of cycling, trains, mountains, lochs and beautiful islands.

The programme shows the islands off at their very best, with beautiful shots of the picture perfect towns and stunning coastline. Ive got a long time to wait for the trip, and Ill be telling you a lot about it over the coming months. But while we all wait for that why not put your feet up and enjoy the programme. Armchair Backpacking at its finest.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/i/xygyl/

Ang

x

Update on the resolutions: Looking Younger

2011-01-17T14:59:00.001Z

So this morning I read this article with much sadness but maybe Im onto a winner. When I accidently get mistaken for being older than I am, those close to me suggest I have an ageless face that one day Ill grow into and then, joy of joys, overtake in real age while still looking the same.

As previously stated I could already pass for 36 so maybe Im onto a winner already that Hollywood is paying millions to achieve. Take a read of this baby...

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/jan/16/year-zero-face-plastic-surgery

Stargazing Live

2011-01-11T16:44:00.002Z

Firstly, may I say as a complete Media Geek, what a fantastic piece of production Stargazing Live was. Im sure everyone who took part in the experiments and has since visited all the online material which accompanies it will agree.

From what I’ve seen since it would appear the programmes were met with mixed reviews but people, this is the future of television and I couldn’t be more thrilled, except maybe if the audio guides had really been radio broadcasts.

But before you say “what! the future of TV is 2 blokes and a swanky touch screen, with a refresh rate that works on tv” let me explain, and yes I know you wouldn’t say the last bit.

The future of television isn’t programmes as a one-directional communication, its bi-directional programmes which form part of a media series, alongside a whole host of other content like webpages, podcasts, webcasts, live events, discussion boards and places to plonk your own photos, the works really.

Eventually television will just be the internet, and the content of the multi-media series will all be available on that screen you point your furniture at. In fact you can already do this. If you’ve got a tv that can act as a PC monitor you can watch BBC programmes live online (you still need a tv licence to watch them on the live broadcast stream) and by the wonders of the BBC website all the other content is there too.

But I digress, so in summary what Im saying is Stargazing Live has really thought outside the television box and in many ways Astrophysics was the perfect subject to do this with, so lets get onto the actual “content” Ive already said so much about….

As soon as I tuned in I was most impressed that the programme was presented from Jodrell Bank. I went with my Mam and Dad years ago and its brilliant. According to their website they have a new visitor centre opening in the Summer and as Im moving to Manchester I shall have to visit again.

Some people have suggested that the programme wasn’t pitched at the right level but I think it was absolutely spot on. The people who already are amateur astronomers unfortunately aren’t going to get a primetime tv programme, it has to appeal to the masses by introducing the subject to newbies without patronising those with a little more experience. If like me you’ve been interested for years so have absorbed a bit of knowledge without actively persuing it then don’t think you’ll be disappointed. I learnt loads of cool tricks to view and photograph the night sky and Ill be giving them a go in my parents garden next time Im home.

In the meantime Ill be enjoying all the extra material on the website, including a podcasts, how-to guides and a fantastic Star Guide to download.

Considering subject, content and the use of combined media, I give Stargazing Live a big thumbs up. If you scratch the surface you’ll find it is an expansive project full of information to get your stargazing started whether your 9 or 90 with a digital camera or a posh telescope, and not simply “2 blokes and a swanky touch screen”

Enjoy

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00wnvpf

New Year Resolutions, finally underway

2011-01-06T17:47:00.001Z

Right, well I’m only six days late but better late than never (ahem, like last year) so here it is, what you’ve all been waiting for, the 2011 New Year Resolutions…

1. Well this one is fairly obvious, actually write this blog. It’s now been the resolution 3 years in a row and you’ll be surprised to hear that my pc, mobile phone, camera, video camera and even my whole house are full of material for the blog. I love the research I just never quite get round to posting it. But for fear that I’m about to drown in a pile of magazine cuttings I’m sorting this right out this year.

2. To not eat any more cheap meat. Oh how I’ll miss sausage rolls, pasties and pepperoni pizzas but before Christmas I watched that programme of factory pig farming and now I just cant do it. I appreciate if your budget is tight this isn’t an option but I do have a tiny amount of beer tokens in my pay and I'm going to trade some for free range organic meat. I’m only one person, if I’m wise with the ol’ freezer it won’t be too expensive, will it.

3. Ok, this is the big one. To end the year younger than I began it. This has come about because I have always looked older than I am. Apparently at the minute I can easily pass for the wrong side of 35 despite being only 26. When I was 1 year old people would ask my Mam why I wasn’t in school. Massive boo. So I dedicate this full year to investigating how to reverse the aging process, naturally of course, if I aint eating force fed pigs anymore then I certainly aint injecting anything or cutting anything out.
So far I can report that I have been sporting a ponytail and fringe and outdoors have been wearing a woolly hat with a bobble and ear covers, all modelled on a 5 year old but not fooling anyone. More investigation required.

Right that’s it, I’ll keep you all up to date on progress.

Time to go home and eat beans on toast, that’s a young person food right?

Taking the top spot, at Number One: Birmingham World Tour Tom

2011-01-05T19:11:00.003Z

Who (or what) else could be at number 1 than Tom of World Tour of Birmingham Fame. We had so many adventures and I wouldn’t have seen as much of Birmingham or grow to love it without him.
He was a proper Brummie, which like a real Cockney in London is canny rare. So heres to you Tom, you are Top of the Top 10. Exciting I know.

And this leads me nicely into my next big piece of news:

It is wish a very heavy heart that the Armchair Backpacker announces that she is leaving Leeds. I KNOW, ALREADY?!? Yes, its been a swift 6 months but an offer I couldn’t refuse was made by Manchester so Im off there. But not for a few weeks yet so there’ll be plenty of Leeds exploring in the meantime. The excellent news is that Tom will be joining me there, or Im joining him! He knew he was going first but Ill be there first, strange I know.

So there you go, another big announcement in the space of a few months. Id better get house hunting.